Melburnian Nan Kroll met Julio Forteza when she was working in the Atacama Desert, in his native Chile. When she came back to Australia with him a few years later, they wanted to bring the taste of Chile with them.
They have just opened Citrico (which means citrus in Spanish) in North Fitzroy, a restaurant focusing on Chilean, Peruvian and Argentinian cuisines. For Lima-born chef Daniel Salcedo (ex-Rockpool Bar & Grill, Harley House and Piqueos), it’s a natural combination because the three countries share many similar dishes. “When they told me ‘Chile, Peru and Argentina’, I was very comfortable with that. But if they had told me Jamaica, Venezuela and Chile, I would have said no, it doesn’t make sense,” explains Salcedo.
Among the dishes popular in the three countries is pastel de choclo, a layered corn cake served at Citrico with an eggplant terrine, charred provolone and a sweet corn sauce. They also have empanadas, another South American staple. “We have three different types,” says Kroll. “It's comfort food, something you can buy everywhere in South America. They sell empanadas at bus stops.”
Popular all over Latin America, ceviche is considered the national dish of Peru. Try the ceviche clásico first. Unlike the fancy ceviche you’ll often see in Australia, this one is the real deal: catch of the day, sweet potato, raw onion, lettuce and “tiger milk” (the mix of fish juice, lime, chillies and coriander used for curing). “We are trying to represent the simplicity of our food, the flavours of South America. It’s very honest and humble,” says Salcedo.
The Citrico team: Julio Forteza, Daniel Salcedo and Nan Kroll. Source: Kate Shanasy
Citrico's version of a much-loved South American dish: pastel de choclo. (Audrey Bourget) Source: Audrey Bourget
The Argentinian influence comes strongly through the asado (barbecue) section of the menu. Beef, chicken and seafood are cooked on a parrilla grill, giving that distinctive charcoal and wood flavour. Everything from the grill is served with Argentinean chimichurri and Chilean salsa pebre.
We are trying to represent the simplicity of our food, the flavours of South America. It’s very honest and humble.
While meat and seafood might catch your eye first at Citrico, vegetables are also given the royal treatment. Salcedo has created a vegan ceviche, where the “tiger milk” is replaced by “snow leopard milk” (made from lime and charred cauliflower) to cure vegies like king mushrooms, palm hearts and asparagus.
He has also transformed the traditional anticuchos de corazón (beef heart skewers) into anticucho verdura. It sees mushrooms, zucchini, squash and purple potato marinated in a spicy sauce and cooked on the parrilla grill. “In South America, they would probably kick me out, they’d say it's crazy,” says Salcedo, laughing. “But I was inspired to create something that would still represent South America, but with no animal products.”
“It’s important to give these options. I want people to feel comfortable. You might order fish ceviche and your friend can order vegetable ceviche. You both get your ceviche and you both are happy,” he adds.
Kroll and Forteza wanted to keep the menu accessible, even including a cheat sheet at the back explaining certain techniques and ingredients. “We are in Fitzroy North, in an area where people might not have tried that cuisine before, so we want to keep it as simple as possible.”
The empanadas come with 3 fillings: potato and feta, orange-braised pork, and beef with black olives. Source: Kate Shanasy
In South America, they would probably kick me out, they’d say it's crazy. But I was inspired to create something that would still represent South America, but with no animal products.
“We wanted to start simple – not to confuse people who might not know about the Japanese and Chinese influence in Peru,” adds Salcedo. “But slowly, we want to introduce that Japanese influence in the raw fish and the Chinese influence into the cooking.”
The drink list includes local and South American wines and beers, as well as Inca Kola, a popular Peruvian soft drink made with lemon verbena.
You can also pick from 17 types of pisco (grape brandy), including two from Australia, and plenty of pisco cocktails.
It’s hard to go past the traditional pisco sour, which you’ll soon be able to enjoy in the sun on a courtyard at the back of the restaurant.
On the drinks menu: the pisco sour, which is popular in Peru and Chile. (Kate Shanasy) Source: Kate Shanasy
376 Queens Parade, Fitzroy North, Vic, (03) 9482 1482
Mon 5 – 11 pm, Wed 5 – 11 pm, Thu – Sun midday – 11 pm
