Eating raw fish is having a moment. It started with sashimi, quickly embraced tartare, cosied up with gravlax and soon got its poké on. Then along came ceviche and there was a zesty new darling in town.
Is ceviche actually raw, though?
Denaturing, acid-style
At its core, ceviche is basically fresh seafood steeped in an acidic marinade, most commonly lime or lemon juice. The acid in the citrus forms an extremely low pH condition to denature the fish protein networks, much the same as heating would. This results in the seafood becoming opaque and more firm in texture.
Find the recipe here.
Jimmy Shu's 'Desert Rose' ceviche showcases the exquisitely flavoured muscle of the pearl shell. Source: Ben Ward / Jimmy Shu's Taste of the Territory
"It's definitely not 'raw' fish," says Jimmy Shu, owner of NT restaurants Hanuman and host of Taste of the Territory, who names his 'desert rose' pearl meat ceviche as one of his favourite dishes. "It's cooked in lime juice. You're killing all the germs - you tuck it in [the marinade] for a good 20 minutes, but not too much longer. You don't want it to be too pickled."
You tuck it in [the marinade] for a good 20 minutes, but not too much longer. You don't want it to be too pickled.
Safety first
Shu is mostly correct about ceviche's acid marinade "killing the germs", however, as with any raw or 'undercooked' seafood dish, there can still be plenty of nasties lurking, ready to bite.
"Raw seafood, as with many raw animal products, can be naturally contaminated with pathogenic microorganisms, parasites or contain seafood associated toxins," Cathy Moir, food microbiologist with the CSIRO tells SBS Food. "We don’t recommend serving raw seafood to those people that might be more susceptible to food poisoning, including pregnant women, people with reduced immune systems, diabetics or the elderly."
In order to kill potential pathogens, it's recommended that seafood should be cooked to at least 60 degrees Celcius or cooled to below 4 degrees Celcius. Which is a little tricky to gauge when you're denaturing fresh seafood with acid, rather than heat.
Kokoda, Fijian ceviche, adds coconut to a lime and chilli marinade for a tropical vibe. Source: Sharyn Cairns
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"You can reduce the risk by being particularly careful about buying sashimi grade seafood from reputable supplier," says Moir. "Ensure the seafood is kept chilled and maintain strict hygiene when preparing these raw foods.
"If preparing ceviche style, allowing the seafood to marinate for longer (hours to overnight) and in the fridge, of course, may help with acid inactivation of any microorganisms that might be present."
The fresher the fish, the better the dish.
No wait, freshness first
While an overnight ceviche marinade would make most chefs blanch, the scientists and chefs all agree that the fresher the fish, the better the dish.
"Get the freshest seafood you can get your hands on," says Shu. "Ceviche style keeps the softness and juiciness of the fish."
"It's super important to source a fresh and in season fish," agrees Alejandro Saravia, director and executive chef at Melbourne's Pastuso and Perth's UMA. He advises selecting a delicate flavoured fish with a soft, tender, dry flesh like snapper or blue eyed cod, but whatever is sustainable and in season at the market is the best choice.
Peruvian chef Alejandro Saravia recommends starting with the freshest possible fish. Source: Kristoffer Paulsenv
Like a tiger
Saravia would know. He grew up eating ceviche in his native Peru, where the dish is a national treasure, celebrated each year on 28 June. "I love ceviche, it’s truly my favourite dish," he enthuses. "I can eat ceviche all day long, as it’s a very versatile dish. The combinations are infinite."
Some inventive sources suggest it's [called tiger's milk] because the acidic nature of the marinade turns men into tigers in bed.
His favourite way to prepare it is using a traditional lech de tiger marinade. It's uncertain why the marinade is called tiger's milk; some inventive sources suggest it's because the acidic nature of the marinade turns men into tigers in bed. Not surprisingly, the marinade is often served alongside the ceviche in a small glass, ready to be thrown back, shot-style.
Gently and quickly does it
Lech de tiger is traditionally made using limes from the north coast of Perú, known as limón sutil, Peruvian chilies, coriander roots and other ingredients that vary depending on the region and the "likings of the cook", as Saravia puts it. This might include turmeric, chilli or coriander, each flavouring turning the tiger's milk a different colour.
Find the recipe here.
Always use firm-fleshed white fish, without skin and bones, to prepare classic ceviche. Source: Peru: The Cookbook
As for Moir's recommendation to marinade the seafood for longer to better 'cook' the ceviche, it's definitely not recommended by Saravia.
"Don't over marínate the fish in the tiger's milk," he cautions. "It’s important to let the good quality ingredients shine." Instead, you only need to marinade for "a couple of minutes".
Just like when cooking with heat, too much time spent in the acid marinade can turn seafood rubbery and tough. Serve it straight away so the fish still looks translucent and vibrant, showcasing the freshness and quality of the seafood selected.
Explore a Taste of the Territory with Jimmy Shu in his brand-new series at 8:30pm Thursdays from 23 April to 11 June on SBS Food and On Demand.
