--- Join Yasmin Newman as she explores a range of Filipino dishes and flavours in A Taste of the Philippines streaming now at SBS On Demand. ---
Banana ketchup is a Filipino household staple: it has a sweet and savoury tang, and can be flavoured with garlic, onion, spices and chilli.
Despite its name, this ketchup usually has no tomato – even though the colour, consistency and flavour closely resemble its tomato sauce counterpart. Traditionally, the natural colour of banana ketchup is more of a brownish yellow, so some people add a bit of tomato paste or red food colouring to emulate the familiar redness of ketchup.
My family loves having barbecues to celebrate special occasions and pork belly and chicken wings are always on the menu. The meat is marinated the day before and a big portion of banana ketchup is added for flavour. The banana imparts a tropical sweetness to the meat, the salt and spices lend savoury tones, while the vinegar's tangy reprieve balances out the richness. As the meat is cooked over charcoal, the fat forms caramelised, charred edges, indicating that it's ready to eat. As hungry bystanders, this is our cue to grab a plate.
During World War II, when American soldiers fought in support of the Philippines, there was a shortage of tomatoes – a key ingredient in ketchup, which Americans had brought to the country in the late 1800s. Bananas grew in abundance, which led to Magdalo V. Francisco Sr. mass-producing a ketchup alternative made with the fruit in 1942.
But the recipe for banana ketchup originates with food technologist Maria Orosa – she's been recognised by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines for her invention.
It was part of her mission to make the Philippines sustainable and self-sufficient, so she studied food chemistry and developed recipes with native ingredients so locals wouldn't to have to rely on imported foods.
Despite being named ketchup, this condiment usually has no tomato – even though the colour, consistency and flavour closely resembles its tomato sauce counterpart.
When I was young, I remember eating Filipino spaghetti. It was like a sweet version of spaghetti Bolognese with sliced hot dog pieces. I often wondered why it tasted so different to the conventional spaghetti Bolognese that I ate at my friend’s house. I later found out the secret ingredient was banana ketchup. The sweetness of the banana is what made the dish distinctly Filipino and it was that dance of sweet and savoury that made it feel like home.
While banana ketchup enhances many Filipino dishes, it's also a great condiment in its own right. I think it’s completely interchangeable with tomato ketchup. Granted it’s a little sweeter and has a hint of spice, but I find this only further complements meat pies, sausages, burgers, hot chips and the like.
The sweet and sour notes also make for an excellent dipping sauce. It goes especially well with Filipino spring rolls, which we call lumpia. The spring rolls are deep-fried pastries filled with meat or vegetables and the banana ketchup offers the necessary sweet, savoury and sour blend to boost the dish.
I later found out the secret ingredient was banana ketchup. The sweetness of the banana is what made the dish distinctly Filipino and it was that dance of sweet and savoury that made it feel like home.
My favourite way to eat banana ketchup is simply zigzagged across an egg omelette for breakfast. It enlivens the soft buttery egg and adds a compelling tang with each bite.
If you’ve not heard of banana ketchup before, it may seem like a strange concept. When I first mentioned it to my friends, they were perplexed by the inclusion of bananas in a savoury condiment. However, they understood the appeal after trying it.
For me, the flavour reminds me of my family. Whether stealthily used to sweeten a dish, drizzled heavily into a barbecue marinade, used as a dipping sauce or poured across an egg in the morning, it sparks an inimitable nostalgia that warms my heart.
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The lead recipe image is from Under Coconut Skies by Yasmin Newman (Smith Street Books, %RRP455). Get the recipe here.
Filipino flavours
Fried chicken with banana chilli catsup glaze
