It comes out of the oven bubbling, with a golden crust revealing confit duck legs, sausages and white beans. Cassoulet might take several days to make, but at this moment, there’s no doubt that it is worth the wait.
The dish originates from the Occitanie region of southern France, and legend says it was first made during the Hundred Years’ War as the French opposed the English. During the siege of Castelnaudary, locals threw some food they had left into a pot, creating cassoulet, which gave the soldiers enough energy to chase the English back to the Channel.
So before making its way to restaurants and bistros, cassoulet was first a peasant dish. The name comes from the earthenware vessel in which it’s cooked, the cassole.
White beans (like haricots lingots or Tarbais) are non-negotiable, but the selection of featured meat can vary. Most often, you’ll see pork (a few different cuts, like belly and sausages) and confit duck legs, though some recipes call for goose, partridge, mutton or lamb.
A duck cassoulet with orange, apple and hazelnut salad. Source: The Chefs' Line
Tips from a cassoulet expert
Sylvie Bigar, a French-Swiss writer based in New York, has dedicated a decade to writing the book Cassoulet Confessions, which intertwines her family history with her culinary obsession. It also features various recipes, from the most traditional cassoulet to a “gateway cassoulet”. As part of her research, she has eaten many versions of the dish, and been taught how to make an authentic cassoulet by the co-founder of L’Académie Universelle du Cassoulet, one of the groups that promotes and preserves the tradition of the dish (La Grande Confrérie du Cassoulet de Castelnaudary is another prominent one).
The most important thing that she learned is that to get cassoulet right, you have to take your time.
Gather your ingredients in the week leading up to your meal, as you’ll probably need to put a special order with your butcher. You’ll then make the cassoulet over two or three days. If you don’t have a cassole, a Le Creuset-type cast-iron casserole will do the trick.
On day one, soak your beans and prepare your stock, which is made with pork cuts like trotters, rind, ham bone and ham hock, as well as a bouquet garni. Bigar recommends picking your herbs with as much care as your meat.
“It’s crucial to find herbs that have taste and intensity,” she explains, adding that their grassiness will balance the richness of the dish.
On day two, simmer your beans, brown your meat, assemble the cassoulet and cook it in the oven, before refrigerating overnight. Finally, on day three, finish cooking your cassoulet.
During the siege of Castelnaudary, locals threw some food they had left into a pot, creating cassoulet, which gave the soldiers enough energy to chase the English back to the Channel.
Cooking the cassoulet over two days is not necessary, but it will heighten flavour. “The key to all stewed dishes is that leftovers are even better because the meat and haricots have absorbed the stock,” explains Bigar.
The Académie Universelle du Cassoulet (find its recipe here) insists that no breadcrumb is used on top of the dish to create the crust. When the cassoulet is in the oven, keep breaking the crust (seven times is supposed to be optimal) to help create the perfect top layer.
“One of the most mysterious things about this dish is the crust. It’s magical, golden and alive. When you serve it, you can hear the song of the cassoulet coming out of the oven, bubbling,” says Bigar.
Different chefs have different rules and here in Australia, Bistro Guillaume's Guillaume Brahimi adds brioche crumbs on top of his cassoulet towards the end of cooking.
How to serve cassoulet
When Brahimi makes the dish at home, it’s always for a group. “I really believe that the pot should be in the middle of the table and you serve from it. There’s no such thing as a cassoulet for one. When you cook a cassoulet, it’s for several people”, he says.
“It’s warm and it’s happy because it's a dish you want to share with family and friends.”
Both Bigar and Brahimi agree that the cassoulet should be the star of your meal. “If you need something else, you have a problem,” says Brahimi, laughing.
He skips the entrée and serves his with a frisée salad with shallot vinaigrette. Bigar serves hers with a salad with garlic, a baguette and a bottle of red (ideally from Minervois or Corbières). Think acidity and bitterness to balance the richness.
Guillaume Brahimi's take on cassoulet. Source: Andy Baker
Making a cassoulet will keep you busy for several days, but you don’t need complex techniques or tools. And reheated refrigerated or frozen leftovers (if there are any) will taste just as good. We can’t think of a better way to keep warm this winter!
Guillaume Brahimi has two TV shows coming up on SBS Food, Plat du Tour in July, and the new Guillaume in Paris in October. You can find his cassoulet recipe here.
Cosy up with cassoulet
Cassoulet
